By Cristina Rivas - Translated by Ángela Suárez
In a world where clothing items cross continents before reaching our hands, an uncomfortable question is gaining strength: Who makes our clothes? In Latin America, this question takes on special relevance in face of the growing global pressure to know the origin of products and ensure fair working conditions throughout the supply chain.
An Industry Clothed in Inequalit
Latin America is a key player in the global fashion industry. Countries like Mexico, Honduras, El Salvador, Peru, Colombia, and Brazil host hundreds of textile factories, many focused on exports. These plants produce garments for internationally recognized brands, but behind the labels lie stark realities: low wages, long working hours, and lack of government oversight.
A 2023 report by Business & Human Rights Resource Centre "El Salvador: Women Transforming" reveals that maquila workers in El Salvador continue to face extremely precarious labor conditions. According to the study, most female workers endure shifts longer than eight hours a day, sometimes up to 16 hours during peak seasons. 94% of surveyed women said their wages do not reflect the time and effort invested, many also report hostile work environments, arbitrary sanctions, lack of access to basic services like water or restrooms, and discriminatory practices based on gender. These conditions not only affect their physical and emotional well-being but also hinder their personal and professional development, perpetuating a cycle of exploitation and vulnerability.
The subcontracting trap
One of the biggest barriers to transparency is subcontracting. Many brands do not produce their garments directly; instead, they outsource production to third parties, who also further subcontract parts of the process to smaller workshops. This makes it extremely difficult to trace, and hold accountable, the conditions under which garments are made.
In Lima, Peru, it is estimated that over 60% of textile production comes from the informal sector. In these workshops, many operating in private homes, child labor is common, and safety and hygiene regulations are rarely enforced.
Traceability: A nascent tool
Traceability is the ability to track a garment from its origin to the consumer, is a key tool for holding brands accountable. However, in Latin America, its implementation remains limited.
Some pilot initiatives, such as the Moda Sostenible platform in Colombia or verification systems developed by NGOs in Mexico, seeks to map the supply chain. Yet, the lack of regional legislation and unwillingness from major brands have prevented significant progress.
The role of consumers and legislation
Experts agree that social pressure is one of the most effective drivers of change. In an article published in the Revista de Estudios Universitarios Centroamericanos (REUCA), Meraris C. López, warns that many women working from home for textile maquilas face forms of exploitation similar to “modern slavery.” She notes that these workers lack formal contracts, also they must produce garments in very short deadlines , and are paid so little that they can’t afford the set of essential goods and services.
According to López, “the invisibility of these workers denies them recognition as rights-holders,” which increases their vulnerability within international production chains.
ALso, legal frameworks are still weak. Only Brazil has enacted laws against slave labor in the textile sector, though enforcement is inconsistent. The region lacks binding regulations requiring brands to be transparent and accountable throughout their supply chains.
Brands committed to labor justice and sustainability
Despite the challenges, several Latin American brands are leading a shift towards more ethical and sustainable practices. Below are some standout initiatives:
- Nicteel (Guatemala): This slow fashion brand works directly with Indigenous artisan communities, ensuring each garment can be traced back to its place of origin. Nicteel not only identifies who wove each piece but also documents the artisanal process via social media and informational tags, strengthening the product's cultural and human traceability. It also uses natural and local origin materials to facilitate tracking from source to final product.
(Vía Instagram: @nicteelfashiongt)
- Alkimia Textil Ancestral (Argentina): Led by Natalia Orozco, Alkimia collaborates with cooperatives and Indigenous communities under collaborative production models. The brand promotes traceability by including information on the natural dyes used, their plant-based sources, and traditional techniques applied in each collection. Their focus is decentralized but meticulously documented,each piece can be traced to a specific workshop, community, and ancestral technique.
(Vía Instagram: @alkimiatextilancestral)
- Maura Marti (Paraguay): Since 2008, this brand has stood out for its direct work with rural artisans from the interior of the country, especially women weavers preserving techniques like ñandutí. Maura Marti promotes traceability by documenting the origin of each artisan design, naming the creators and showcasing the process on digital platforms. While not technological, its traceability is social and narrative, connecting consumers with each product's cultural roots.
(Vía Instagram: @martimaura)
- La Vestiduría (Uruguay): Founded by Micaela González with an ethical focus, this brand uses organic and recycled materials in its production processes and transparently shares the origin of its fabrics and production methods through its communication channels. In addition to donating a percentage of revenue to social projects, this brand promotes traceability through conscious labeling and open consumer communication about the garment life cycle.
(Vía Instagram: @lavestiduria.uy)
- Versura (Colombia): Created by Mariana Jacobo, Versura promotes circular traceability: working with urban recyclers to collect waste materials that are transformed into new garments. The process is traceable both at the origin (waste and sorting) and transformation stages (workshops and partner communities).By documenting its efforts online and hosting environmental education workshops, the brand raises awareness at every step of the production process
(Vía Instagram: @ver_sura)
- Pacatus (El Salvador): This brand focuses on certified traceability. It uses natural fibers like linen and cotton with European Flax certification,ensuring sustainability and adherence to responsible, harm-free practices. Pacatus also collaborates with Salvadoran women in local workshops under verified ethical conditions, allowing tracking of both raw materials and labor. Its commitment to traceability is both technical and social, seeking for full transparency.
(Vía Instagram: @pacatuswear vestimenta de Pacatus + accesorios de Hebras de Mahi)
Toward a fairer fashion industry
The solution is not simple. It requires a combination of political will, citizen pressure, effective regulation, and corporate commitment. In a region where fast fashion often takes precedence over ethics, Latin America faces the challenge of producing more sustainably and under fairer conditions. Behind every garment lies a story — and it’s time we start telling it.
Sources:
https://www.oxfam.org/es/263000-mujeres-explotadas-en-las-maquilas-de-centroamerica
https://www.dol.gov/agencies/ilab/country/ilab-peru
https://ecolover.life/blog/mola-fashion-week-moda-sostenible-latinoamerica/
