By Valentina Alvarado

 

I recently saw a tiktok that claimed that genuine vintage leather is an option that can be more sustainable than synthetic leather, the misnamed "vegan leather" and I wanted to investigate a little further.

While it is a fact that there is no such thing as totally ethical consumption in capitalism, we can often find ourselves looking for ways to reduce our impact on the environment and lead a more sustainable lifestyle.

Genuine vintage leather is derived from animal origin, the most commonly used in the industry come from the skin of cows and sheep, and in order to be vintage it has to have been manufactured more than 20 years ago at least. Synthetic leather can be PU (polyurethane) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride), which are essentially plastics. It is also important to note that today we find an interesting variety of vegetable leathers, some of them derived from pineapple leaf fibers such as Piñatex, from rubber such as LaVeg, from mushrooms such as Mylo , which has been used by the Stella McCartney brand, and from cactus such as Desserto which has been used by the Fossil brand.

 

Although plant-based leathers may be the most ethical option, they do not yet reach the production levels of their animal-derived and synthetic counterparts and are costly to develop.

When deciding which may be the most sustainable option, we can consider factors such as durability, sourcing and production, and what happens to them at the end of their useful life.

 

Durability

 In this aspect vintage leather has a considerable advantage over synthetic leather, the fact that it is vintage implies that it has been around for a considerable time and still has a useful life. Animal leather does not flake or crack over time and can be kept in good condition for many years with proper care and hydration. Synthetic leather, on the other hand, has a useful life of about 5 years and eventually begins to peel. In the case of vegetable-derived leathers it is difficult to say as they are mostly still in experimental and developmental stages.

 

 

Origin and production

Genuine leather is of animal origin and it is largely a waste of the meat industry; However, its use generates great controversy since the massive consumption of meat encourages the intensive breeding of animals in cruel and unethical conditions. This is without even considering the production of exotic leathers, such as snakeskin and crocodile, which are raised in terrible conditions for the sole purpose of obtaining their skins.  Although the manufacture of PU synthetic leather is less harmful than that of PVC synthetic leather, both require the use of fossil fuels that release harmful toxins into the environment. The production of vegetable-based leathers is not entirely perfect either, some of them also require the use of chemicals to achieve their durability.

 

 

End of useful life

Animal and vegetable-based leather come from organic origin, both incorporate chemicals in their production process that make it difficult to decompose if they end up in a landfill. However, the above two do break down faster than their synthetic counterparts. Moreover, it must be considered that out of the three alternatives, only genuine leather manages to have a long useful life.

 

So which is the most ethical?

It is clear that none of the three options is perfectly ethical or sustainable, each has its pros and cons. It is up to each of us to make an informed decision about which one we prefer that suits our way of living a more responsible life.

In my opinion, opting for genuine vintage leather is the option that implies less demand for the creation of new goods goods since they are objects that have already had a useful life of more than 20 years and to get one you have to opt for the second-hand market. However, I am intrigued by innovations that propose experimentation with vegetable waste and derivatives to create a more ethical substitute for new genuine leather and synthetic leather.