By Camila Rua - Translated by Laura Osuna
Latin America and the Caribbean are the second-largest aquaculture producers in the world, according to the 2024 report on the state of world fisheries and aquaculture. However, up to 45% of the fish is discarded and for tris reason, in recent years, the fashion industry has become interested in creating biomaterials to make use of this waste.
The fish waste consists of heads, skins, scales, and entrails, which are discarded indiscriminately. Therefore, their use offers both economic and environmental benefits.
Some of the fish waste used by the fashion industry includes scales and skins; the first one used to design accessories, while the latter are used for leather goods. The development of each material has its own processes, benefits, and challenges, which will be discussed below.
Leather goods brought from the water
Fish skin leather, as previously mentioned, represents an opportunity to utilize a byproduct of the fishing industry. This material is unique because it has a distinctive pattern similar as reptile skins. It also has qualities such as flexibility and resistance, although these can vary depending on the type of fish.
Some examples of species used are salmon, tilapia, hake, and trout. Many of these species, on average, do not exceed 70 cm in length, meaning the working material is considerably smaller compared to other types of leather. This presents a challenge when designing and making larger products, such as bags.
The process of producing the leather begins with cleaning the skin, removing any remaining meat or fat. Then, it goes through a vegetable tanning process, which takes time; it is at this stage that the characteristic fish odor is removed. The process concludes with dyeing using natural dyes.
Scales that Beautify
Regarding the design of accessories made from fish scales, one of the species used is the shad, which is known for having large, hard scales that are perfect for making accessories. Preparing the material requires little procedure: it is simply washed with water, soap, and cleaner, then dyed with natural dyes or even painted.
The fishing and aquaculture industry still has much potential to explore in the fashion industry. Materials for leather goods and accessory creation present a new opportunity for communities near fishing areas to generate higher income and create from new materials.
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