By Jaqueline Quesada / Translated by Samai Páez
Imagine this: you are in a clothing store, looking for a new garment. You see a label that says, “made from recycled polyester.” Great!, you think, you're contributing to the planet. Is it really that simple?, though…
The fashion industry, responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions and 20% of drinking water pollution, is desperately looking for a makeover. Recycled polyester (rPET), born from plastic bottles and other waste, is presented as the protagonist of this transformation. Its credentials are attractive: its production consumes up to 59% less energy than that of virgin polyester and reduces CO2 emissions by 32%. In addition, it prevents tons of plastic, of which only 9% is recycled globally, from ending up in landfills or in the ocean.
However, behind this supossed green revolution shadows are hidden. The production of rPET, although more efficient, continues to consume energy and generate pollution. Its recycling, although possible, is not infinite and at the end of its useful life rPET also becomes waste.
The problem of microfibers, those tiny particles that come off when washing clothes, is another critical point. Both virgin and recycled polyester contribute to this pollution, accounting for up to 35% of the primary microplastics that invade our oceans and enter the food chain.
"The rPET is a step in the right direction, but not the solution," warns the environmental organization Greenpeace. “The industry needs to move beyond recycling, exploring alternative fibers and adopting circular design practices.”
The crucial question remains in the air: is rPET really better than virgin polyester? The answer is not very simple. Both are derived from fossil fuels, both are toxic to some extent, and both release microfibers. There are even studies that suggest that the carbon footprint of rPET may be in some cases, greater than that virgin polyester.
In Latin America, rPET is making its way as a promising alternative in the search for a more sustainable fashion industry. Brands like Maaji in Colombia, Elementa in Mexico, and Osklen in Brazil are leading the change by incorporating rPET into their collections, demonstrating that fashion and sustainability can go hand in hand. Despite the challenges, such as the need to improve recycling infrastructure and increase awareness of the environmental impact of polyester, the future in the region is promising. Collaboration between brands, governments, and non-governmental organizations will be key to driving adoption of sustainable fibers and building a more responsible industry.
