{"id":5622,"date":"2020-10-14T19:51:17","date_gmt":"2020-10-14T22:51:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/desarrollosdeprueba.xyz\/universo_mola\/?p=5622"},"modified":"2021-08-08T19:55:46","modified_gmt":"2021-08-08T22:55:46","slug":"dialogos-sobre-identidad-e-inclusion-no-1-will","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/universomola.com\/en\/dialogos-sobre-identidad-e-inclusion-no-1-will\/","title":{"rendered":"DI\u00c1LOGOS SOBRE IDENTIDAD E INCLUSI\u00d3N NO.1- WILL"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Por Denise Reddy, Voz del #UniversoMOLA Estados Unidos. Disponible en ingl\u00e9s.<\/span><\/p>\n

Conoc\u00ed a Will cuando todav\u00eda viv\u00eda en Buenos Aires, Argentina en el 2016. Su abuelo y mi pap\u00e1 eran amigos de infancia y la conexi\u00f3n entre ambas familias fue instant\u00e1nea. M\u00e1s adelante y a trav\u00e9s de las redes sociales conoc\u00ed m\u00e1s sobre su activismo a favor de la aceptaci\u00f3n y toma de conciencia de identidad de g\u00e9nero. Por ello, es una de las personxs que sab\u00eda que quer\u00eda entrevistar sobre este tema.\u00a0<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

I met Will in 2016 back home in Buenos Aires, Argentina. His grandfather and my dad were childhood friends and the mutual connection between both families was instant. Further on and through Social Media I knew more of his activism towards gender acceptance and awareness. Therefore, he was one of the persons I knew I wanted to ask about this topic.\u00a0<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\u00bfC\u00f3mo te sentiste cuando viajaste por Argentina? \u00bfViajar afecta la manera en la que te vistes?<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

How did you feel when travelling to Argentina? Does travelling affect the way you dress?\u00a0<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

Mmm creo que cuando fui Argentina no sab\u00eda qu\u00e9 esperar hasta que estuve all\u00ed. Cuando viajo llevo una gran variedad de prendas para estar preparadx. Llevo las cosas que me gustar\u00eda usar y me hacen sentir a mi mismx, con la esperanza de que sean todo lo que necesito.<\/span> Pero tambi\u00e9n llevo cosas que son m\u00e1s \u201ccomunes\u201d en caso que necesite camuflarme y protegerme.<\/b> Usualmente, me siento m\u00e1s c\u00f3modx usando la ropa que quiero en la ciudad, donde la diversidad de gente en mayor. En pueblos m\u00e1s peque\u00f1os, temo llamar demasiado la atenci\u00f3n. La gente asume que utilizo ropa brillante o faldas porque quiero llamar la atenci\u00f3n, pero en realidad es exactamente lo contrario. Yo quiero usar lo que sienta que es genuino para mi, y quiero que eso sea absolutamente normal y mundano.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Hmm I think in Argentina I just didn’t know what to expect until I got there. When I travel, I bring a wide array of clothes, so I can be prepared. I bring the things I want to wear and feel like me, in hopes that they’ll be all I need. <\/span><\/i>But I also bring things that are more nondescript in case I need to blend in and protect myself.<\/i><\/b> Usually, I feel more comfortable wearing whatever I want in the big cities, where there is just a wider range of people. In the smaller towns, I fear sticking out too much. People assume that I am wearing sparkly clothing or skirts because I want attention, but it is actually the opposite. I want to wear what feels genuine to me, and I want that to seem absolutely normal and mundane.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\u00bfCu\u00e1l es tu identidad de g\u00e9nero? \u00bfLa defines de alguna manera?\u00a0<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

What is gender identity? Do you define your identity in a certain way?<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\u00bfQu\u00e9 es identidad de g\u00e9nero? Esa es una pregunta muy abarcativa con un sinf\u00edn de respuestas. <\/span>Para mi, el g\u00e9nero es un conjunto conceptual de categor\u00edas sociales.<\/b> Estas categor\u00edas fueron simplificadas y diluidas a medida que los humanxs se volvieron m\u00e1s autosuficientes. Esto hace que los roles de g\u00e9nero contempor\u00e1neos queden obsoletos. Por eso ahora, a medida que ampliamos la forma en que pensamos sobre la identidad de g\u00e9nero, lo veo como un componente de una ubicaci\u00f3n social: c\u00f3mo me entiendo a m\u00ed mismo en relaci\u00f3n a mi entorno y c\u00f3mo quiero que me entiendan a cambio. Palabras que describen mi identidad de g\u00e9nero incluyen: genderqueer, trans y no-binarix.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

What is gender identity? That\u2019s a very big question with an endless number of answers. <\/span><\/i>To me, gender is a conceptual set of societal categories.<\/i><\/b> These categories have been simplified and watered down, while humans have become more self-sufficient. This makes contemporary gender roles obsolete. So now, as we expand how we think about gender identity, I see it as one component of a social location: how I understand myself in relation to my surroundings and how I want to be understood in return. Words that describe my gender identity include: genderqueer, trans, and non-binary.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\u00bfCu\u00e1les son los desaf\u00edos con los que te encontraste comprando ropa\/zapatos\/accesorios?\u00a0<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

What are the challenges you have faced so far in buying clothes\/shoes\/accesories? <\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

La vestimenta ha sido un marcador com\u00fan (y un mandato) de la identidad de g\u00e9nero durante milenios. Para una persona trans que desea ser entendida por fuera del g\u00e9nero que se le asign\u00f3 al nacer, la vestimenta es una de las primeras y m\u00e1s accesibles formas de transmitir esto. Sin embargo, <\/span>el tama\u00f1o puede ser a menudo un desaf\u00edo, especialmente para las mujeres trans.<\/b> La ropa t\u00edpicamente femenina, como los tacones altos y los vestidos, no siempre se fabrican en las tallas adecuadas para las mujeres trans. Los hombres trans a menudo se vendan el pecho y \/ o buscan ropa lo suficientemente holgada como para ocultar sus curvas. <\/span>Cuando se identifica un grupo demogr\u00e1fico objetivo para una prenda de vestir, se lo adapta a c\u00f3mo se espera que se vean esos cuerpos<\/b> en lugar de a la gama completa de cuerpos humanos. Imagina, por ejemplo, a alguien comprando lencer\u00eda. Esos \u00edntimos est\u00e1n dise\u00f1ados exclusivamente para los cuerpos de las mujeres cis, cuando algunas mujeres pueden necesitar un poco m\u00e1s de espacio.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Dress has been a common marker (and mandate) of gender identity for millenia. For a trans person who wishes to be understood separately from the gender they were assigned at birth, dress is one of the first and most accessible ways to convey this. <\/span><\/i>However, sizing can often be a challenge, especially for transwomen.<\/i><\/b> Typically feminine clothing such as high heels and dresses aren\u2019t always made in the sizes that fit transwomen. Trans men often bind their chests and\/or seek clothing that is baggy enough to hide their curves. <\/span><\/i>When we identify a target demographic for a piece of clothing, we then tailor it to what we expect those bodies to look like<\/i><\/b> instead of the full range of human bodies. Imagine, for example, someone shopping for lingerie. Those intimates are tailored exclusively for the bodies of cis women, when some women might need a bit of extra room.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\u00bfDir\u00edas que en el transcurso de tu vida y a medida que tu identidad cambiaba se vio afectada la manera en que comprabas ropa?<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

Would you say that in different moments of your life and as you identified yourself in different ways your fashion buying experience changed?<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

La ropa es una forma muy importante de afirmar mi identidad de g\u00e9nero. <\/span>Es una gran parte de c\u00f3mo le transmito al mundo qui\u00e9n soy.<\/b> Debido a que me visto de una manera que algunas personas podr\u00edan no esperar, al menos les indica a las personas que me rodean que no hagan suposiciones sobre qui\u00e9n soy o c\u00f3mo me gustar\u00eda que me trataran o me llamaran. Poder expresar mi feminidad a trav\u00e9s de la ropa fue fundamental, especialmente al comienzo de mi viaje. La ropa y el maquillaje son tan f\u00e1ciles de poner y quitar que permiten que el usuario experimente. En su forma m\u00e1s extrema, la capacidad de usar ropa afirmativa y ver un reflejo externo de la persona que sientes dentro de ti literalmente salva vidas.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Clothing is an extremely important way that I affirm my gender identity. <\/span><\/i>It is a major part of how I convey to the world who I am.<\/i><\/b> Because I dress in a way that some people might not expect, it at least cues the people I\u2019m surrounded by to not make assumptions about who I am or how I would like to be treated\/called. Being able to express my femininity through clothing was pivotal, especially at the beginning of my journey. Clothing and makeup are so easy to put on and take off, it allows the wearer to experiment. At its most extreme, the ability to wear affirming clothing and see an external reflection of the person inside you literally saves lives.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\u00bfPuedes compartir una an\u00e9cdota relacionada a una compra?<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

Could you share an anecdote regarding a purchase?\u00a0<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

En este punto de mi vida, compro principalmente en las tiendas de mi barrio, donde conozco las marcas y s\u00e9 que tanto estas como sus empleadxs apoyan lo queer y van a celebrar las compras conmigo.<\/b> Me siento diferente cuando vuelvo a mi casa en Michigan, o si compro en un lugar que no me es familiar. Hoy en d\u00eda la mayor parte de mi ropa nueva proviene de tiendas de segunda mano. Cuando compro ropa nueva, suele ser para un evento formal. Me siento m\u00e1s elegante con un vestido o un mono. Sin embargo, considero la adquisici\u00f3n de este atuendo como un recado, una tarea. Por ello, normalmente estoy vestidx de manera informal, al igual que cuando voy al supermercado, al correo o simplemente hago cosas. Cuando entro en una tienda desconocida en jeans y una camiseta o un su\u00e9ter, los vendedores hacen una cierta suposici\u00f3n sobre para qu\u00e9 estoy all\u00ed. Al verme llenar el vestidor con vestidos de lentejuelas, generalmente no hay una transici\u00f3n suave en su adaptaci\u00f3n mental. Ya no me molesta tanto, y tengo la suerte de vivir en una ciudad progresista donde incluso una persona con prejuicios no se atreve a expresar su opini\u00f3n intolerante. Pero la mayor\u00eda de la gente no ve el g\u00e9nero y se viste con tanta fluidez como yo. As\u00ed que realmente les cuesta trabajo ajustar sus expectativas a la realidad.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

At this point in my life, I shop mostly at stores in my neighborhood, where I know the brands and staff are affirming of queerness and will celebrate my retail experiences with me.<\/i><\/b> I feel differently when I go home to Michigan, or if I shop somewhere I\u2019m unfamiliar with. At this point in my life, most of my new clothing comes from thrift stores. When I buy new clothing, it is usually for a formal event. I feel my fanciest in either a dress or a jumpsuit. However, I think of this outfit acquisition as an errand, a chore. So I am normally dressed casually as I would when I\u2019m running to the grocery store, the post office, or just getting things done. So when I walk into an unfamiliar store in jeans and a t-shirt or a sweater, the salespeople make a certain assumption about what I\u2019m there for. When I begin to fill a dressing room with sequin gowns, there is normally not a smooth transition in their mental adjustment. It doesn\u2019t bother me as much any more, and I am fortunate to live in a progressive city where even a prejudiced person dare not voice their bigoted opinion. But most people don\u2019t see gender and dress as fluidly as I do. So it really takes work for them to adjust their expectations to reality<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\u00bfTienes alg\u00fan consejo para que dise\u00f1adorxs y marcas de moda sean m\u00e1s inclusivas?<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n

Do you have any tip for fashion designers and brands to be more inclusive?<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

Los dise\u00f1adores har\u00edan bien en crear ropa que se adapte a todo cuerpo humano. Esto se aplica a cuerpos de diferentes tama\u00f1os, g\u00e9neros, razas, todo. No existe una talla \u00fanica para todos.<\/b> Una talla \u00fanica para todos los conceptos de g\u00e9nero es contra lo que se rebela la comunidad trans. Pienso en las personas transg\u00e9nero como hechas a medida, como alta costura. En lugar de usar una prenda que no nos quedaba bien que nos entregaron, decidimos adaptar nuestra expresi\u00f3n para que coincidiera exactamente con nosotros. Tomamos los ingredientes individuales que m\u00e1s amamos e hicimos una identidad que es exclusivamente nuestra. La industria de la moda y el mundo ven a estas personas como casos aislados, como un problema a resolver o ignorar. Pero yo veo a las personas trans como absolutamente singulares y \u00fanicas. \u00bfQui\u00e9n no querr\u00eda que su ropa fuera publicitada y usada por personas as\u00ed?<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Designers would do well to create clothing that can fit the entire breadth of human bodies. This goes for bodies of different sizes, genders, races, everything. There is no such thing as a one-size fits all.<\/i><\/b> A one-size fits all understanding of gender is what the trans community is rebelling against. I think of transgender people as custom-made, as couture. Instead of wearing an ill-fitting garment that was handed to us, we decided to tailor our expression to match us exactly. We took the individual ingredients that we love most and made an identity that is uniquely ours. The fashion industry and the world see these people as outliers, as a problem to solve or ignore. But I see trans people as absolutely singular and one of a kind. Who wouldn\u2019t want their clothing to be advertised and worn by people like that?<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

Gracias @wwilhelm\u00a0<\/b><\/p>\n

By @thedenisereddy<\/b><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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